Orchids have a reputation for being the "divas" of the plant world. We’ve all been there: you bring home a stunning, blooming Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid) from the store, only for the flowers to drop and the leaves to wrinkle a month later.
But here’s a secret: Orchids aren't actually hard to grow; they’re just different. Unlike your typical Pothos or Peace Lily, most orchids are epiphytes, meaning they grow on trees in the wild rather than in soil.
Key Takeaways for Success
Light: Provide bright, indirect light.
Watering: Use the "soak-and-drain" method once a week.
Environment: Maintain 50–70% humidity and temperatures between 65–80°F.
Medium: Use chunky bark or sphagnum moss; never use standard potting soil.
Feeding: Fertilize "weakly, weekly" with a balanced, diluted solution. The American Orchis society offers instructions and information on their site here!
1. Light: The Secret to Reblooming
Light is the most critical factor for orchid health. If your orchid won't rebloom (flower again), it’s likely not getting enough light. For most common species like Phalaenopsis, aim for bright, indirect light.
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The Sweet Spot: Place your orchid near an east-facing window for gentle morning sun, or a west-facing window with a sheer curtain to filter the light.
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The Leaf Test:
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Bright, grassy green: Your orchid is happy.
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Dark forest green: It needs more light (move it closer to the window).
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Yellow or red-tinged: It's getting a "sunburn" (move it 1–2 feet back).
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Supplementing With A Grow Light: Soltech's Modern Full Spectrum grow lights, such as the Versa, provide the essential light metrics needed for year-round growth in low-light homes.
2. Watering: The "Soak and Dry" Method
Overwatering is the #1 reason indoor orchids die. Because their roots need air to breathe, they will rot if they sit in standing water.
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Check the Roots: Healthy, hydrated roots are bright green and plump. If they look silvery-gray or white, it’s time to water.
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The Routine: Water about once a week by soaking the potting medium in lukewarm water for 10–15 minutes, then letting it drain completely
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Pro Tip: Avoid getting water in the "crown" (the center where leaves meet), as this can cause crown rot. Check out our blog for more information on how to avoid over or under watering your Orchid!
3. Temperature & Humidity: Think Tropical
Orchids love a "spa-like" environment. They thrive in temperatures between 65°F and 80°F.
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The Nighttime Trick: To trigger new flower spikes, orchids need a slight temperature drop at night (about 10–15 degrees) during the fall.
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Humidity Hacks: Orchids prefer 50-70% humidity. If your home is dry, set your pot on a pebble tray a shallow dish filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, it creates a humid microclimate around the plant. You can find Pebble Tray's at many local plant stores as well as at Walmart!
4. Potting Medium: No Soil Allowed!
Never plant an orchid in regular potting soil. Soil is too dense and will suffocate the roots. Instead, use a chunky bark-based mix or sphagnum moss to ensure high air circulation.
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Species |
Ideal Medium |
Watering Frequency |
|
Phalaenopsis |
Bark Mix or Moss |
Once every 7–10 days |
|
Cattleya |
Coarse Bark |
Once every 5–7 days |
|
Dendrobium |
Fine/Medium Bark |
Keep slightly moist |
5. Feeding: "Weakly, Weekly"
In the wild, orchids get tiny amounts of nutrients every time it rains. Mimic this by using a balanced orchid fertilizer diluted to 1/4 or 1/2 strength every time you water during the growing season
When to seek help: If you notice mushy black roots or sticky residue on leaves, consult our troubleshooting FAQ.
In summary, keeping an orchid healthy is not about constant intervention, but about creating the right environment for it to thrive. By focusing on providing bright, indirect light, utilizing the soak-and-drain watering method, and ensuring your plant is in a bark or moss-based medium, you can avoid the common pitfalls that lead to orchid decline. Check out our Plant Guide for specific guides on your species of Orchid!
