The right potting mix for an aroid depends on which genus you're growing, not just the word "aroid" on the bag. Climbing epiphytes like Monstera and Philodendron want a chunky, bark-forward blend, moisture-loving Anthurium wants extra sponge built into the mix, and rhizome-storing plants like ZZ plant want something leaner and closer to a succulent blend. This guide breaks the ratio down genus by genus, with a comparison table and a step-by-step way to build or adjust a bag of potting mix at home.
TL;DR
Monstera and Philodendron do best in a chunky mix built around bark, potting soil, and perlite for air pockets around thick roots.
Anthurium wants that same airiness plus more moisture retention, since its roots dry out faster than a Monstera's.
Pothos is genuinely more forgiving and does fine in a standard houseplant mix with perlite added.
ZZ plant is technically an aroid too, but its water-storing rhizomes want the leanest, sandiest mix of the group.
For a closer look at the base aroid formula, see Soltech's guide to the best aroid soil mix, and for a related species-specific breakdown, see the guide to potting mix for Dieffenbachia.
Why Doesn't One Aroid Mix Fit Every Plant in the Family?
The aroid family, Araceae, is large enough to include climbing epiphytes, moisture-loving understory plants, trailing vines, and even a few plants that store water in underground rhizomes. Each of those growth habits comes with a different root structure, and root structure is what actually determines how much air and water a potting mix needs to hold.
That's why the same bag of "aroid mix" can be perfect for one plant and consistently too wet, or too dry, for another. Matching the ratio to the plant's native growth habit, rather than to the family name on the label, is the detail most potting mix guides skip.
What Ratio Works Best for Monstera and Philodendron?
Penn State Extension recommends a well-draining, soilless potting mix rich in organic matter with a neutral pH between 6.0 and 8.0 for Monstera, and notes that charcoal, bark, or perlite can be mixed into a purchased potting soil to get there. SDSU Extension gives similar guidance for Philodendron, recommending a well-drained potting mix and suggesting the soil be refreshed roughly every two years to avoid salt and mineral buildup.
A practical starting ratio for both genera is two parts high-quality potting mix to one part orchid bark and one part perlite. The bark keeps the mix from collapsing into a dense, airless mass around the thick, climbing roots these plants send out in search of structure to grip.
What Does Anthurium Need That Monstera Doesn't?
Anthurium is also an epiphytic aroid, but its finer root system dries out faster than a Monstera's and is more prone to stress when the mix swings between soggy and bone dry. A moisture-holding medium like sphagnum moss helps prevent drying out between waterings, even though the same moss becomes a liability if it's ever kept constantly wet.
In practice, that means building on the Monstera-style bark ratio and folding in an extra measure of coco coir or a light layer of sphagnum moss, so the mix holds a bit more moisture without losing the air pockets the roots still need.
Is Pothos Really as Forgiving as People Say About Soil?
Mostly, yes. Guidance on Pothos calls for well-drained potting soil and warns that continuously damp soil promotes root rot, but doesn't call for the heavier bark ratio that Monstera and Philodendron need. A standard houseplant potting mix with perlite worked in, at roughly four parts mix to one part perlite, is usually enough.
Pothos roots are finer and less structurally demanding than a Monstera's, which is part of why it tolerates a wider range of indoor conditions, including lower light and less consistent watering, better than most of its aroid relatives.
Why Does ZZ Plant Need an Almost Succulent-Style Mix?
ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) is a member of the Araceae family too, even though most people don't group it with Monstera and Pothos. Its rhizomes store water underground, notably a leaner mix works best: 50 percent peat moss or coir-based potting soil, 25 percent perlite, and 25 percent sand. Root rot develops when ZZ plants sit in poorly drained soil with excess water for extended periods.
Because the rhizomes already hold a reserve of water, ZZ plant is the one aroid in this lineup where more moisture retention in the mix works against the plant rather than for it.
How Do These Ratios Compare Side by Side?
|
Genus |
Native Growth Habit |
Key Mix Components |
Drainage Priority |
|
Climbing epiphyte |
Potting mix, orchid bark, perlite (2:1:1) |
High, with steady moisture |
|
|
Epiphyte, finer roots |
Bark mix plus coco coir or sphagnum moss |
High, with extra moisture retention |
|
|
Trailing vine |
Standard potting mix plus perlite (4:1) |
Moderate |
|
|
Rhizome-storing |
Peat/coir, perlite, sand (Clemson: 50/25/25) |
Very high, minimal retention |
How Do You Build or Adjust One of These Mixes at Home?
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Start with a bag of high-quality, general houseplant potting mix as the base for every genus, rather than a cactus mix or garden soil.
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For Monstera or Philodendron, fold in one part orchid bark and one part perlite for every two parts of potting mix.
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For Anthurium, use the same bark-forward base, then add an extra handful of coco coir or a thin layer of sphagnum moss for moisture retention.
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For Pothos, skip the bark and simply work perlite into a standard potting mix at roughly a 4:1 ratio.
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For ZZ plant, build a leaner mix with equal parts peat or coir, perlite, and coarse sand, 50/25/25 guidance.
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Test drainage by watering thoroughly and confirming water moves through the pot within a few seconds rather than pooling on top.
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Refresh the mix every one to two years
Does the Light Above the Pot Matter as Much as the Mix Inside It?
An aerated mix only helps if the plant has enough light to actually use the oxygen at the root zone. Roots pull in water at a rate tied to how much the leaves are photosynthesizing, so a beautifully built mix under low light still ends up damp for longer than it should.
For a windowsill collection of smaller aroids like Pothos or juvenile Anthurium, a compact fixture like the Grove LED Bar Light fits under a shelf without crowding the pots, while a larger Monstera or Philodendron trained up a moss pole benefits from the wider, even coverage of a Highland LED Track System spread across a few feet of shelf or wall space.
Conclusion
"Aroid mix" is a useful starting point, but the Araceae family covers too much ground for one ratio to serve every plant well. Monstera and Philodendron want structure and air, Anthurium wants that same air plus a bit more sponge, Pothos tolerates a simpler blend, and ZZ plant wants the leanest mix of the group despite technically belonging to the same family. Building the ratio around the plant's native growth habit, rather than its family name, is what actually prevents the soggy roots and stalled growth that send most aroids back to the potting bench too soon.
For more on building a base aroid formula, see the guide to choosing the right soil for houseplants, and for tropical species outside the Araceae family, see the guide to potting mix for tropical houseplants.
