• Login
Search Login

Search anything about Plant Lighting, Content, and More.

Calathea ‘White Star’

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Goeppertia majestica 'White Star' (formerly Calathea majestica)

 KNOWN AS:  White Star Calathea, Pinstripe Calathea 'White Star'

CLIMATE (LOCATION): Brazil | Tropical Rainforest

DESCRIPTION: The White Star is arguably the most elegant member of the prayer-plant family. It features large, elliptical leaves adorned with fine, crisp white and pink pinstripes that look as if they were painted on with a single-hair brush. Unlike the smaller Ornata, the 'White Star' has broader leaves and a more robust, "majestic" upright growth habit. The undersides are a deep, contrasting burgundy.

Calathea ‘White Star’ Plant Care

Lighting

Light Requirement: High Light (Bright Indirect Light)

This is the "Goldilocks" of lighting.

Too much sun: The delicate white stripes will burn, and the leaves will turn brown and crisp.

Too little light: The plant will lose its vibrant variegation, and the white lines may dull or turn green.

The Goal: A spot near a north or east-facing window where the light is bright but never touches the leaves directly.

Discover Our Grow Lights

BEST SELLER
Vita™ Grow Light
$120.00 CAD

Color:

White / Wide (60°) Black / Wide (60°)
Highland™ LED Track Light System
$323.00 CAD - $1,037.00 CAD

Color:

White / 1 light / Narrow (36 Degrees) Black / 1 light / Narrow (36 Degrees)
Grove™ LED Grow Light
$183.00 CAD

Color:

Black White

Watering

Quick Tip: Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy. Avoid tap water.

The 'White Star' is a "purist." It is highly sensitive to the minerals, salts, and fluoride found in tap water.

The Water: Using tap water will almost certainly cause the leaf edges to turn brown and the white stripes to "rust." Use distilled, rainwater, or reverse-osmosis water.

The Schedule: Water when the top half-inch of soil feels dry. It should feel like a wrung-out sponge—damp, but not dripping.

Temperature

Preferred Temperature: 65º - 85º

Like all tropical Goeppertia, the White Star hates the cold.

Drafts: Keep it away from AC vents and drafty windows.

The Danger Zone: Temperatures below 60°F will cause the leaves to curl tightly and may lead to permanent damage.

Humidity

Preferred Humidity: 60 - 80%; High Humidity

This is usually where owners struggle.

The Problem: In average home humidity (30–40%), the 'White Star' will suffer from "crispy edge syndrome."

The Solution: A humidifier is the best investment for this plant. Grouping it with other plants or keeping it in a large terrarium/cabinet also works. Misting is generally discouraged as it can encourage fungal spots on the broad leaves.

Additional Plant Care

Propagation
This plant grows from an underground rhizome and cannot be grown from stem cuttings. How to Propagate: Division. During the spring, gently separate the plant into smaller clumps, ensuring each clump has a healthy section of the root system and several leaves. Aftercare: New divisions are extremely fragile; keep them in a "mini-greenhouse" (a clear plastic bag) to maintain 90% humidity until new growth appears.
Toxicity
Quick Warning: Non-Toxic to cats, dogs, and humans. This is a safe choice for pet owners who want a high-drama, "designer" plant without the risk of poisoning their furry friends.
Repotting
When to Repot: Every 1–2 years in the spring. Choose a Pot: A pot with excellent drainage. Calatheas actually like to be slightly snug, so don't jump up too many sizes. Soil: Use a mix that stays moist but allows the roots to breathe.
Pruning
The Movement: Don't panic if the leaves are upright at night and flat during the day—this is nyctinasty (prayer movement) and is a sign of a healthy plant. Grooming: Use sterilized scissors to snip away any brown or yellow leaves at the base. If just the tips are brown, you can trim the brown part off, following the natural curve of the leaf.
Fertilizer
Quick Tip: Feed sparingly and always flush the soil. Salt buildup is the enemy. What to Use: A balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) diluted to 1/4 or 1/2 strength. Using full strength is too aggressive for their sensitive roots. When to Apply: Once a month during the active growing season (Spring and Summer). The "Flush" Routine: Because this plant is so sensitive to minerals, every third or fourth watering should be a "flush." Pour a generous amount of distilled water through the soil and let it drain out completely to wash away any residual fertilizer salts that cause brown leaf edges. Winter Care: Do not fertilize in the Fall or Winter. The plant's growth slows down, and excess nutrients will lead to root burn.
Soil
Ideal Mix: A rich, peaty, well-draining aroid-style mix. Recommended Blend: 2 parts peat moss or coco coir, 1 part perlite, and 1 part orchid bark. This keeps the roots damp but ensures they never "suffocate" in mud.

Hanging Heights

Calathea ‘White Star’ Lighting Requirements: High Light (Bright Indirect Light)

A Pink Princess Philodendron isn't the plant you want to experiment on with a pair of dull scissors and no plan. Between the price tag and the fact that its pink coloring can be a little unpredictable, it's fair to feel more cautious cutting into this one than you would a pothos. The good news is that propagating a Pink Princess is genuinely simple once you understand the one thing that trips most people up: the pink pattern on your cutting isn't guaranteed to look exactly like the parent plant.

If your plant hasn't put out a new leaf in a while, or the leaves it is growing are small, pale, and spaced far apart on a stretched-out stem, it can feel like it's just stalled for no reason. It's not. Slow or leggy growth is almost always your plant telling you something specific, and once you know what to look for, the fix is usually simple.

If your Monstera's new leaves keep coming in solid, round, and nothing like the dramatic split leaves you've seen on other people's plants, you're probably wondering what you're doing wrong. Likely nothing. Leaf splitting, technically called fenestration, depends on a handful of specific conditions coming together, and when even one of them isn't quite right yet, your Monstera will keep producing solid leaves until it is.