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String of Pearls

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Senecio rowleyanus or Curio rowleyanus

KNOWN AS: String of Pearls, String of Beads

CLIMATE (LOCATION): Southwest Africa | Arid

DESCRIPTION: The String of Pearls is a unique and delicate trailing succulent. It's named for its small, round, pea-like leaves that grow on long, cascading stems. This plant is a favorite for hanging planters, where its whimsical "beads" can be beautifully displayed.

String of Pearls Plant Care

Lighting

Light Requirement: High Light (Bright Indirect Light)

The String of Pearls thrives in bright, indirect light. It can tolerate a few hours of direct morning sunlight, but it must be protected from harsh afternoon sun, which can easily burn the leaves.

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Watering

Quick Tip: Allow soil to completely dry out before watering.

The String of Pearls is extremely sensitive to overwatering, which is the most common cause of death for this plant. Water thoroughly only when the soil is completely dry to the touch. It is better to underwater this succulent than to overwater.

Temperature

Preferred Temperature: 65º - 80º

The String of Pearls prefers warm, stable temperatures. The ideal range is between 65-80°F. It is sensitive to cold and should be kept away from temperatures below 50°F.

Humidity

Preferred Humidity: 30 - 50%; Low/Moderate Humidity

As a desert succulent, the String of Pearls prefers a low to moderate humidity environment. The average humidity of most homes is perfect for this plant, and you do not need to take any special steps to increase it.

Additional Plant Care

Propagation
The String of Pearls is very easy to propagate by stem cuttings. Take a cutting of a stem that is a few inches long and has at least 3-4 pearls on it. Place the cutting on top of moist, well-draining soil, or gently press it into the soil. The roots will grow from the leaf nodes, so ensure the nodes are touching the soil.
Toxicity
The String of Pearls is toxic to humans and pets. Ingesting any part of the plant can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and other gastrointestinal issues. It is important to keep the String of Pearls out of reach of children and pets.
Repotting
The String of Pearls is a slow grower and prefers to be a bit pot-bound. Repotting is only necessary every few years, or when the plant has completely outgrown its container. Select a new pot that is only slightly larger and has drainage holes. Be very gentle when repotting, as the stems are delicate and can easily break. Use fresh, well-draining soil.
Pruning
Pruning your String of Pearls is a great way to maintain its shape and health.Trim away any dead or leggy stems. You can also snip off stems to encourage a fuller, bushier plant. Use clean, sharp shears to make a cut. The trimmed stems can be used for propagation.
Fertilizer
String of Pearls do not require a lot of fertilizer. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength is ideal. Fertilize once a month during the spring and summer growing season. Do not fertilize during the fall and winter.
Soil
The right soil is crucial for a healthy String of Pearls. The plant requires a very well-draining soil mix to prevent root rot. A good mix is cactus or succulent potting mix amended with extra perlite or coarse sand. Always use a pot with a drainage hole to ensure excess water can escape.

Hanging Heights

String of Pearls Lighting Requirements: High Light (Bright Indirect Light)

A Pink Princess Philodendron isn't the plant you want to experiment on with a pair of dull scissors and no plan. Between the price tag and the fact that its pink coloring can be a little unpredictable, it's fair to feel more cautious cutting into this one than you would a pothos. The good news is that propagating a Pink Princess is genuinely simple once you understand the one thing that trips most people up: the pink pattern on your cutting isn't guaranteed to look exactly like the parent plant.

If your plant hasn't put out a new leaf in a while, or the leaves it is growing are small, pale, and spaced far apart on a stretched-out stem, it can feel like it's just stalled for no reason. It's not. Slow or leggy growth is almost always your plant telling you something specific, and once you know what to look for, the fix is usually simple.

If your Monstera's new leaves keep coming in solid, round, and nothing like the dramatic split leaves you've seen on other people's plants, you're probably wondering what you're doing wrong. Likely nothing. Leaf splitting, technically called fenestration, depends on a handful of specific conditions coming together, and when even one of them isn't quite right yet, your Monstera will keep producing solid leaves until it is.