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Kalanchoe

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Kalanchoe Blossfeldiana

KNOWN AS: Kalanchoe, Widow's Thrill, Christmas Kalanchoe

CLIMATE (LOCATION): Madagascar & Africa | Arid

DESCRIPTION: The Kalanchoe is a popular succulent cherished for its thick, waxy leaves and long-lasting, vibrant flowers that bloom in shades of red, pink, yellow, and orange. Known for its drought tolerance and low-maintenance nature, it is a great choice for adding a burst of color to any room.

Kalanchoe Plant Care

Lighting

Light Requirement: High Light (Bright Indirect Light)

The Kalanchoe thrives in bright, indirect light. It needs plenty of light to bloom, so a south- or west-facing window is ideal. While it can tolerate some direct sun, be careful with intense afternoon light, which can scorch its leaves. To re-bloom, the plant requires a period of 12-14 hours of complete darkness each night for 6-8 weeks in the fall.

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Watering

Quick Tip: Allow soil to completely dry out before watering.

As a succulent, the Kalanchoe stores water in its leaves and is very susceptible to overwatering, which is the most common cause of root rot. Water thoroughly only when the soil is completely dry to the touch. Reduce watering significantly during the dormant winter months.

Temperature

Preferred Temperature: 60º - 85º

The Kalanchoe prefers warm, stable temperatures. The ideal range is between 60-85°F. It is sensitive to cold and should be kept away from temperatures below 50°F and from drafts.

Humidity

Preferred Humidity: 30 - 50%; Low/Moderate Humidity

The Kalanchoe is a desert succulent and prefers a low to moderate humidity environment. The average humidity of most homes is perfect for this plant, and you do not need to take any special steps to increase it.

Additional Plant Care

Propagation
The Kalanchoe is very easy to propagate by stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, or offsets. Take a cutting and allow the cut end to form a callus for a few days before planting it in a well-draining soil mix. A single leaf can be planted in moist soil and will root. Some varieties produce small offsets from the leaves that can be easily removed and planted.
Toxicity
The Kalanchoe is toxic to pets.The plant contains cardiac glycosides (bufadienolides) that can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and in rare cases, an abnormal heart rhythm if ingested by cats and dogs. It is important to keep this plant out of reach of pets.
Repotting
Repotting a Kalanchoe is a minimal task. Repotting is typically only necessary every 1-2 years, or when the plant has completely outgrown its container. Select a new pot that is only slightly larger and has drainage holes. Use fresh, well-draining soil and carefully place the plant in the new pot, filling in the sides with fresh soil.
Pruning
Pruning is a simple task to keep your Kalanchoe looking its best. Trim away any spent flowers, dead leaves, or leggy stems. Use clean shears to cut the stem off at the base. This redirects the plant's energy and encourages a fuller plant.
Fertilizer
Kalanchoes do not require a lot of fertilizer. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength is ideal. Fertilize once a month during the spring and summer growing season. Do not fertilize during the fall and winter.
Soil
The right soil is crucial for a healthy Kalanchoe. The plant requires a well-draining soil mix to prevent root rot. A good mix is cactus or succulent potting mix amended with extra perlite or coarse sand. Always use a pot with a drainage hole to ensure excess water can escape.

Hanging Heights

Kalanchoe Lighting Requirements: High Light (Bright Indirect Light)

A Pink Princess Philodendron isn't the plant you want to experiment on with a pair of dull scissors and no plan. Between the price tag and the fact that its pink coloring can be a little unpredictable, it's fair to feel more cautious cutting into this one than you would a pothos. The good news is that propagating a Pink Princess is genuinely simple once you understand the one thing that trips most people up: the pink pattern on your cutting isn't guaranteed to look exactly like the parent plant.

If your plant hasn't put out a new leaf in a while, or the leaves it is growing are small, pale, and spaced far apart on a stretched-out stem, it can feel like it's just stalled for no reason. It's not. Slow or leggy growth is almost always your plant telling you something specific, and once you know what to look for, the fix is usually simple.

If your Monstera's new leaves keep coming in solid, round, and nothing like the dramatic split leaves you've seen on other people's plants, you're probably wondering what you're doing wrong. Likely nothing. Leaf splitting, technically called fenestration, depends on a handful of specific conditions coming together, and when even one of them isn't quite right yet, your Monstera will keep producing solid leaves until it is.