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Pearls and Jade Pothos

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Epipremnum aureum 'Pearls and Jade'

KNOWN AS: Pearls and Jade Pothos, Variegated Pothos

CLIMATE (LOCATION): Tropical (Cultivar developed by University of Florida)

DESCRIPTION: The Pearls and Jade Pothos is a patented cultivar characterized by its smaller, heart-shaped leaves that feature a unique "speckled" variegation. Unlike the 'N'Joy' variety, its white and cream patches are heavily dappled with green spots, giving it a complex, textured look. It is a slower grower than the standard Golden Pothos but offers a more compact and ornamental trailing habit.

Pearls and Jade Pothos Plant Care

Lighting

Light Requirement: High Light (Bright Indirect Light)

Because of the high amount of white and cream variegation, the Pearls and Jade requires bright, indirect light to thrive. Without enough light, the plant may lose its variegation or grow extremely slowly. Avoid direct sunlight, as the white portions of the leaves lack chlorophyll and will burn easily.

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Watering

Quick Tip: Allow the top 50-75% of the soil to dry out between waterings.

Like most Pothos, this plant is forgiving but sensitive to overwatering. Wait until the soil feels dry deep down before watering thoroughly. If the leaves begin to droop slightly, it’s a clear signal that the plant is thirsty. Always ensure excess water drains out of the pot to prevent root rot.

Temperature

Preferred Temperature: 65º - 85º

The Pearls and Jade thrives in a warm, indoor environment. It should be kept away from cold drafts, air conditioning vents, and drafty windows during the winter. Temperatures below 60ºF can cause stunted growth or leaf damage.

Humidity

Preferred Humidity: 40 - 60%; Moderate Humidity

This plant is very adaptable and handles average home humidity well. However, if your home is very dry, you may notice the white edges of the leaves turning brown. Increasing humidity slightly with a humidifier or by grouping plants together can help keep the foliage pristine.

Additional Plant Care

Propagation
The Pearls and Jade is easily propagated via stem cuttings. How to Propagate: Take a cutting with at least one node and place it in water or moist soil. Important Tip: Because this variety grows more slowly than other Pothos, be patient; it may take a few weeks longer for roots to establish.
Toxicity
Quick Warning: The Pearls and Jade Pothos is toxic to humans and animals. Contains calcium oxalate crystals. If ingested, it can cause immediate irritation of the mouth, swelling of the throat, and digestive upset. Keep it on high shelves or in hanging baskets away from pets and children.
Repotting
This variety is a slower grower and typically only needs repotting every 2–3 years. When to Repot: If you see roots circling the bottom of the pot or notice the soil drying out significantly faster than usual. Choose a Pot: Select a pot 1-2 inches wider with good drainage. Repot: Use a fresh, high-quality potting mix.
Pruning
Pruning helps maintain a bushy, full appearance. Maintenance: Trim back any long, thin vines to encourage the plant to branch out from the top. How to Prune: Cut just above a node using clean, sharp shears. Tip: Stick the cuttings back into the soil of the mother plant to create a fuller, more lush look.
Fertilizer
Pearls and Jade benefits from a light feeding schedule. What to Use: A balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength. When to Apply: Fertilize once a month during the spring and summer. Skip fertilization during the winter months.
Soil
A well-draining medium is key to preventing root issues. Ideal Mix: A standard indoor potting soil amended with perlite. Recommended Blend: 2 parts potting soil to 1 part perlite or orchid bark to ensure the roots stay aerated.

Hanging Heights

Pearls and Jade Pothos Lighting Requirements: High Light (Bright Indirect Light)

A Pink Princess Philodendron isn't the plant you want to experiment on with a pair of dull scissors and no plan. Between the price tag and the fact that its pink coloring can be a little unpredictable, it's fair to feel more cautious cutting into this one than you would a pothos. The good news is that propagating a Pink Princess is genuinely simple once you understand the one thing that trips most people up: the pink pattern on your cutting isn't guaranteed to look exactly like the parent plant.

If your plant hasn't put out a new leaf in a while, or the leaves it is growing are small, pale, and spaced far apart on a stretched-out stem, it can feel like it's just stalled for no reason. It's not. Slow or leggy growth is almost always your plant telling you something specific, and once you know what to look for, the fix is usually simple.

If your Monstera's new leaves keep coming in solid, round, and nothing like the dramatic split leaves you've seen on other people's plants, you're probably wondering what you're doing wrong. Likely nothing. Leaf splitting, technically called fenestration, depends on a handful of specific conditions coming together, and when even one of them isn't quite right yet, your Monstera will keep producing solid leaves until it is.