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Weeping Fig

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Ficus Benjamina

KNOWN AS: Weeping Fig, Ficus, Benjamina

CLIMATE (LOCATION): Asia & Australia | Tropical & Subtropical

DESCRIPTION: The Weeping Fig is a classic indoor tree known for its graceful, arching branches and glossy, dark green leaves. Its elegant appearance adds a sophisticated touch to any room. This plant is sensitive to changes in its environment, and is famous for dropping its leaves when stressed.

Weeping Fig Plant Care

Lighting

Light Requirement: High Light (Bright Indirect Light)

The Weeping Fig thrives in bright, indirect light. It needs plenty of light to remain healthy and full. While it can tolerate a few hours of direct morning sun, avoid harsh afternoon sun. Insufficient light can cause the plant to drop its leaves and become leggy.

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Watering

Quick Tip: Water when the top 1-2 inches of soil are dry.

The Weeping Fig prefers to have its soil kept consistently moist but is sensitive to overwatering, which is a common cause of root rot and leaf drop. Water thoroughly when the top 2 inches of soil are dry to the touch, and allow the excess water to drain away. Reduce watering in the fall and winter.

Temperature

Preferred Temperature: 65º - 80º

The Weeping Fig prefers warm, stable temperatures. The ideal range is between 65-80°F. This plant is extremely sensitive to cold and should be kept away from drafts and sudden temperature changes.

Humidity

Preferred Humidity: 40 - 60%; Moderate Humidity

The Bromeliad appreciates moderate to high humidity. You can increase the humidity around your plant by misting its leaves, using a humidifier, or placing the pot on a tray of pebbles with water.

Additional Plant Care

Propagation
The Weeping Fig can be propagated by stem cuttings or air layering. Take a cutting that is 6-8 inches long and has a few leaves. You can root the cutting in water or a moist potting mix. Wear gloves to avoid contact with the toxic sap.
Toxicity
The Weeping Fig is toxic to humans and animals. The plant contains a milky white sap (latex) that can cause skin and eye irritation. If ingested, it can cause gastrointestinal upset, vomiting, and diarrhea. It is important to keep the Weeping Fig out of reach of children and pets.The Weeping Fig is toxic to humans and animals. The plant contains a milky white sap (latex) that can cause skin and eye irritation. If ingested, it can cause gastrointestinal upset, vomiting, and diarrhea. It is important to keep the Weeping Fig out of reach of children and pets.
Repotting
The Weeping Fig is a fast-growing plant that may need to be repotted every 1-2 years. The best time to repot is in the spring or summer. Select a new pot that is slightly larger than the current one and has drainage holes. Use fresh, well-draining soil. Carefully remove the plant from its old pot and place it in the new one, filling in the sides with fresh soil. Be aware that repotting can cause stress and temporary leaf drop.
Pruning
Pruning is a great way to maintain the shape and size of your Weeping Fig. Trim away any dead, damaged, or unruly branches. Use clean, sharp shears to make cuts and maintain your desired shape. Pruning encourages a fuller, bushier plant. Wear gloves to avoid contact with the sap.
Fertilizer
Weeping Figs benefit from regular fertilization during the growing season. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength is ideal. Fertilize once a month during the spring and summer growing season. Do not fertilize during the fall and winter.
Soil
The right soil is crucial for a healthy Weeping Fig. The plant requires a well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. A good mix is a standard potting soil amended with perlite to improve drainage. Always use a pot with a drainage hole to ensure excess water can escape and prevent root rot.

Hanging Heights

Weeping Fig Lighting Requirements: High Light (Bright Indirect Light)

A Pink Princess Philodendron isn't the plant you want to experiment on with a pair of dull scissors and no plan. Between the price tag and the fact that its pink coloring can be a little unpredictable, it's fair to feel more cautious cutting into this one than you would a pothos. The good news is that propagating a Pink Princess is genuinely simple once you understand the one thing that trips most people up: the pink pattern on your cutting isn't guaranteed to look exactly like the parent plant.

If your plant hasn't put out a new leaf in a while, or the leaves it is growing are small, pale, and spaced far apart on a stretched-out stem, it can feel like it's just stalled for no reason. It's not. Slow or leggy growth is almost always your plant telling you something specific, and once you know what to look for, the fix is usually simple.

If your Monstera's new leaves keep coming in solid, round, and nothing like the dramatic split leaves you've seen on other people's plants, you're probably wondering what you're doing wrong. Likely nothing. Leaf splitting, technically called fenestration, depends on a handful of specific conditions coming together, and when even one of them isn't quite right yet, your Monstera will keep producing solid leaves until it is.