SCIENTIFIC NAME: Anthurium crystallinum
KNOWN AS: Crystal Anthurium, Ace of Spades (often confused with A. clarinervium)
CLIMATE (LOCATION): Central & South America | Tropical Rainforest (Epiphyte)
DESCRIPTION: The Anthurium crystallinum is the crown jewel of many aroid collections. It is famous for its large, velvety, heart-shaped leaves that can reach massive sizes. The foliage is a deep forest green, but its most striking feature is the shimmering, crystal-like white veins that outline the leaf's structure. Unlike the Clarinervium, the leaves of the Crystallinum are typically thinner, more elongated, and have a more pronounced "sparkle" under bright light.
Light Requirement: High Light (Bright Indirect Light)
Quick Tip: Water when the top 1-2 inches of soil are dry.
Preferred Temperature: 65º - 80º
Preferred Humidity: 60 - 80%; High Humidity
Anthurium crystallinum Lighting Requirements: High Light (Bright Indirect Light)
Aspect Hanging Heights - Anthurium crystallinum
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Soltech's Recommendation -
24" to 36"
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Vita Hanging Heights - Anthurium crystallinum
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Soltech's Recommendation -
36º Narrow Beam Vita : 24" to 36"
60º Wide Beam Vita : 12" to 24"
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Highland Hanging Heights - Anthurium crystallinum
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Soltech's Recommendation -
36º Narrow Beam Highland : 30" to 42"
60º Wide Beam Highland : 18" to 30"
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A Pink Princess Philodendron isn't the plant you want to experiment on with a pair of dull scissors and no plan. Between the price tag and the fact that its pink coloring can be a little unpredictable, it's fair to feel more cautious cutting into this one than you would a pothos. The good news is that propagating a Pink Princess is genuinely simple once you understand the one thing that trips most people up: the pink pattern on your cutting isn't guaranteed to look exactly like the parent plant.
If your plant hasn't put out a new leaf in a while, or the leaves it is growing are small, pale, and spaced far apart on a stretched-out stem, it can feel like it's just stalled for no reason. It's not. Slow or leggy growth is almost always your plant telling you something specific, and once you know what to look for, the fix is usually simple.
If your Monstera's new leaves keep coming in solid, round, and nothing like the dramatic split leaves you've seen on other people's plants, you're probably wondering what you're doing wrong. Likely nothing. Leaf splitting, technically called fenestration, depends on a handful of specific conditions coming together, and when even one of them isn't quite right yet, your Monstera will keep producing solid leaves until it is.
