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Sundew

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Drosera

KNOWN AS: Sundews, Carnivorous Plant

CLIMATE (LOCATION): Wet, Nutrient-Poor Bogs Worldwide

DESCRIPTION: The Sundew is a captivating carnivorous plant known for its leaves covered in glistening, sticky tentacles that resemble dewdrops. These tentacles are used to lure, trap, and digest insects. This fascinating plant is a unique and rewarding addition to any home, provided its specific care needs are met.

Sundew Plant Care

Lighting

Light Requirement: Full Sun (Bright Direct Light) & High Light (Bright Indirect Light)

Sundews require a lot of bright light to produce their signature sticky "dew." The more light they get, the better they will thrive. A sunny windowsill or a dedicated grow light is ideal. If your Sundew stops producing dew, it is a key sign that it needs more light.

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Watering

Quick Tip: Use the tray method with distilled or rainwater.

This is the most crucial part of Sundew care. They must be kept constantly wet, and the "tray method" is the best way to do this. Place the pot in a tray or saucer and keep it filled with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rain water. Never use tap water, as the minerals will build up and kill the plant.

Temperature

Preferred Temperature: 60º - 80º

Sundews prefer warm, stable temperatures. The ideal range for most species is between 60-80°F. Keep your plant away from cold drafts and sudden temperature changes.

Humidity

Preferred Humidity: 50 - 70%; Moderate/High Humidity

Sundews require high humidity to produce their sticky dew. You can maintain this level by using a humidifier or by growing the plant in a terrarium. Good air circulation is also important to prevent fungal issues.

Additional Plant Care

Propagation
Sundews are easily propagated by seeds, leaf cuttings, or division. This is a very effective method. Cut a healthy leaf from the plant and lay it on top of a moist, nutrient-poor soil mix. Gently separate the plant into smaller clumps and repot each section.
Toxicity
The Sundew is non-toxic to humans and animals. This plant is safe for households with children and pets.
Repotting
Repotting a Sundew is typically only necessary every 2-5 years or when the plant has completely outgrown its pot. The best time to repot is in the spring as the plant enters its active growing season. Use fresh, nutrient-poor soil and be gentle with the roots as they can be brittle.
Pruning
Pruning is a minimal task for the Sundew. Trim away any brown or dying leaves, which is a normal part of the plant's growth cycle. Use clean scissors to snip off any unwanted parts.
Fertilizer
Do not fertilize the soil. Sundews get their nutrients from the insects they catch. If you are growing the plant indoors and it is not catching insects, you can feed it a small bug or apply a very diluted foliar fertilizer to the leaves once a month.
Soil
The right soil is crucial for a healthy Sundew. The plant requires a nutrient-poor, acidic soil mix. Never use standard potting soil. A good mix is sphagnum peat moss mixed with perlite or coarse sand. Always use a pot with a drainage hole and the "tray method" of watering

Hanging Heights

Sundew Lighting Requirements: Full Sun (Bright Direct Light) & High Light (Bright Indirect Light)

A Pink Princess Philodendron isn't the plant you want to experiment on with a pair of dull scissors and no plan. Between the price tag and the fact that its pink coloring can be a little unpredictable, it's fair to feel more cautious cutting into this one than you would a pothos. The good news is that propagating a Pink Princess is genuinely simple once you understand the one thing that trips most people up: the pink pattern on your cutting isn't guaranteed to look exactly like the parent plant.

If your plant hasn't put out a new leaf in a while, or the leaves it is growing are small, pale, and spaced far apart on a stretched-out stem, it can feel like it's just stalled for no reason. It's not. Slow or leggy growth is almost always your plant telling you something specific, and once you know what to look for, the fix is usually simple.

If your Monstera's new leaves keep coming in solid, round, and nothing like the dramatic split leaves you've seen on other people's plants, you're probably wondering what you're doing wrong. Likely nothing. Leaf splitting, technically called fenestration, depends on a handful of specific conditions coming together, and when even one of them isn't quite right yet, your Monstera will keep producing solid leaves until it is.